Tough roads

I thought I have seen some bad roads, but Indonenesia opens new views on roads. The plan was to go in one day from Bukit Lawang to Berastagi, a town close to a working volcano. The road to Bukit Lawang already was pretty bad, rivers and palmoil trucks have quite a demolishing power, but the road I travel on Januari the 18th is something else. I should have been alarmed when someone on the way told me I could stay at Pammasimeler when I had not enough time left to go all the way. From Simpan Durenmolok to Telagah my ass gets a very serious beating from all the big rocks I have to go over, but at least this road is flat (at the beginning). There is one positive thing in this, it gives me the kick for being faster than motorbikes and cars. The closer I get to Telagah the worse it gets. Asphalt is no longer to be found, just loose rocks and huge holes, it still is possible to cycle though. I thought I had understood that the road would improve after Telagah, so with almost all my energy spent I am relieved I finally reach Telagah. After nasi goreng telur I remount and proceed on my trip. To my horror the road gets even worse, now I am not able to cycle anymore. Pammasimeler is still 40km away. This is most likely going to be a long day. My speed is probably close to 3km an hour, I might have to camp. Then my luck changes, I had misunderstood the person who told me the distance, it is only 4km. Pretty much exhausted I am invited by Udin, a coffee farmer from Pammasimeler to stay at his place. He cooks for me a simple dinner of rice, beans and fish. In the morning I get noodle soup before I head for Berastagi. After been able to cycle about 200m I have to dismount again and push my bike through the road that more resembles a (dry) riverbed. Then just before the top, delight, paved road. Not smooth but, paved. At times incredible steep. I have to keep my body above my handlebar, otherwise I will fall backward but I can cycle. Around 11:00 I climb a little top and find a great panorama, which also contains the volcano in the distance. This place is also inhabited, so I can start greeting and be greeted. For me this is such a joy. All those laughing faces, smiles, enthousiastic cheers, just because I pass by. Although still not flat, once in a while the road dips quickly to a river to go up steeply right after, cycling is easy and around noon I reach Berastagi. I am going to stay here 2 nights to give my ass some well needed rest and to visit the volcano of course. My ass feels like it is one big wound. I did not know how to sit on my saddle anymore, I hope 2 days not cycling is enough.